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My fortnight’s tour with India’s Premier Nehru in Red China, from Canton in the far south to the new forbidden city of Dairen in the extreme north-east-an hour’s flight from the recent battle fields of Korea began and ended with music. As I left the British frontier station of Lowu, an hour by train from Hongkong, to enter the Chinese train terminus of ShumShen, on the other side of the a steel bridge smaller than a cricket pitch, the loudspeakers were relaying a girl’s voice singing "The Five Star red Banner is fluttering in the east." That was on October 13. On my rturn to Shumshen on October 30 the same song was still on the air, Between these dates I had heard it everywhere. In many ways it represented the spirit of the new China. China has relaxed a little her rigorous ban on the entry of foreigners since the Geneva meeting. For this year’s celebration of "Liberation Day" – October 1-more than 100 delegations were invited from all over the world. The number of communists included was infinitesimal compared with previous occasions. But Nehru’s visit represented something different in the way of welcome. He seemed to be treated like a hero and a long lost brother. Only two years ago he had been described in Russia and China as "a running dog of Western Imperialism". And two years before that, over his protest against the entry of Chinese troops into Tibet, he had been heavily and pungently snubbed. Visitors other than professional journalists have often contributed to the existing confusion or strengthened prejudice. Part of the responsibility is Chinese as, until very recently, only those completely above suspicion were admitted and their impressions were not of much value. Even less than totally sympathetic people have sometimes shown an understandable lack of balance. China is a fascinating land and its first impact on the mind can be cruelly unstabilizing. Some Indian visitors have fallen easy victims to this devastating spell; a few found faults which were not above irrelevant pettifogging. During my recent tour with Mr. Nehru the following interesting stories were related to me. A senior woman member of one of the Indian delegations was introduced to Mr. Chou En-lai and clasped his hand for a few minutes, saying: "Your Excellency, my life’s ambition has been fulfilled today". This form of souvenir hunting is not uncommon among tourists, but seemed somewhat unusual for a serious and sober visitor. China , then, is not an abnormal country if it is remembered that it is a communist state. Similarly, if the Chinese forgot that India, as a democracy, saw nothing wrong in debating for years the value of marriage reform, they would regard us as far from normal men and women. One does not have to approve of communism to like the Chinese; they are likeable in spite of communism. And this is true not only of the masses but also of the senior leaders. Despite the absence of a press-as it is commonly understood- the independent clash of political views, and the many less important categories of freedom, China is a country which pulsates with life, longing and beauty. It is not a "dead" country, subservient in body and soul to a group of usurpers. What china is today is not the result of a coup d’etat, but is the culmination of a revolution, led, no doubt, by communists, but real indigenous and, as far as revolutions involving war and strife can be, a popular one. On that there need be no controversy. Unlike many other countries-both stronger and weaker than herself-the Chinese Government does not seem to believe in a vulgar display of her armed strength, whatever the motives may be, Except for the celebration of "Liberation Day" few people in China seem to remember having seen military parcels of even many uniformed soldiers. Unless they had been flown out all the places we visited not many were visible to us either. No secret is made in China of what the final aim is. People are repeatedly reminded that the target is socialism with all its implications, including complete nationalization of trade and industry and the collectivization of agriculture. On the whole, the China’s sense of decency, good conduct and compromise prevents them from making aggressive display of Marxism. Looking there, were also several opportunities to see new Chinese shoulders at close quarters of the top four Mao-Tse-Tung, General Chu Teh, Mr. Liu Shao, Mr. Chou En Lai, the first not only as Chairman of the People’s Republic but also by dint of personality is by far the most prominent. Except for his portraits which adorn many homes, office and public squares, he is rarely visible beyond the liberation day parade. There is, no doubt an extremely thorough security check on nationals and foreigners alike-due principally to fears about Formosa-but it appeared to lack the fuss and menance of many other countries. Before Mr. Mao Tsetung came to our Ambassador’s banquet-a unique honour to India-we were told that the hotel building had been tested with mine detectors, but we heard about it much later from a hotel resident. |
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